Author Archives: Taco Trail Jose

One Shot: Lockhart Smokehouse’s Pork Cheek Taco

“One Shot” is a new, occasional series reviewing non-taquerías’ tacos.

The unpredictability of fire and the variables of environment require a pitmaster to be equal parts mad scientist and wide-eyed child with a natural, boundless sense of wonder. Talent helps, too.

Lockhart Smokehouse Pitmaster Will Fleischman is certainly talented. If you’ve had his brisket, you know that. If you read this blog regularly, you know that. But have you tried his remarkable smoked salsa roja? When he pours apple cider (not vinegar) into the mixture, the result is a triple whammy of sweet, tart and smoky that can improve practically anything. Continue reading

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Filed under Bishop Arts District, Oak Cliff, One Shot

Chupacabra’s Restaurant & Buy Low Food

You’ve driven past it. Everyone has. And that was what everyone on the Saturday, March 10, taco walking toursaid as we turned the corner onto Ross Avenue. One of the three taco joints the tourists and I hit up that rainy day, Chupacabra’s, is part gas station, bodega, ice cream parlor and restaurant named after the mythical beast reportedly preying on cattle and goats (chupacabra is Spanish for goatsucker) in Texas and parts of Latin America.

There is nothing cryptic about Chupacabra’s, though. Patrons select grub from the menu above the shop’s counter. The cashier relays the order via computer to a kitchen obscured by barren display cases. Then, the plate is brought to your table. Continue reading

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Filed under East Dallas

Jefferson Boulevard Taco Trail Walking Tour

UPDATE: The April 7 tour is full. Those still interested will be placed on the waiting list. All you need to do is hit me up via the methods below.

The second Taco Trail Walking Tour will be held Saturday, April 7. The first tour traveled along a small stretch of East Dallas, beginning at Tacos La Banqueta, which today made it into Serious Eats taco bracket sweet 16. The second tour will take on eastern parts of Oak Cliff’s Jefferson Boulevard, near Interstate 35E.

During the jaunt, we’ll visit three or four establishments—be they restaurant or a dump with adhesive surfaces. Continue reading

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Filed under Oak Cliff

The Mixing Bowl Bakery

This might come as a shock: I’m crazy about breakfast tacos. The eggs and whatever (maybe just barbacoa) filling a slightly spongy, warm flour tortilla preparation is my preferred morning meal. Breakfast tacos where you don’t expect them are even better, which led me to the Mixing Bowl Bakery.

The small operation, run out of a converted and slightly dilapidated house on Hampton Road south of Jefferson Boulevard, offers simple breakfast tacos Wednesday to Friday weekly and is decorated with seemingly every implement in every Abuelitas kitchen armamentarium. Handheld mixers, graters, mezzalunas and spatulas are crammed in next to cartoon character-themed glassware, rusty lunchboxes and mid-century tchotchkes. In Spanish, one could say, “de todo un poco,” or call it a “mezcla.” Continue reading

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Filed under breakfast tacos, Oak Cliff

La Paisanita Taqueria

There is a La Paisanita on Maple Avenue and one at the intersection of Inwood Road and Maple. Another (my favorite) is tucked inside a gas station on the northwest corner of Park Lane and Greenville Avenue. The newest outpost of the La Paisanita taquería chain opened in Oak Cliff several months ago in a former laundromat and receives a steady stream, bordering on a trickle, of customer traffic. It’s the second La Paisanita on Davis. The other is at Ravinia Drive, among a smattering of other taco joints, ones I’ll get to in time.

Eager to see—and taste—how the most recent location stacked up against the others, my wife and I stepped in shortly after our move to Oak Cliff. Continue reading

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Filed under Chains, Oak Cliff

Lockhart Smokehouse’s Brisket Breakfast Taco

This week has seen the piling on of brisket taco love. And rightly so. Before all that hoopla, however, I ambled into Lockhart Smokehouse early last Saturday morning, tired from a move that took my family across the Trinity River to Oak Cliff, ready for grub. Specifically, brisket breakfast tacos, from pitmaster Will Fleischman, whose Monday brisket tacos I reviewed here.

Announced a day before the Mardi Gras weekend celebrations, the breakfast tacos were as much a product of my incessant fiddlingwith Lockhart leftovers and the posting of the resultant photos, my tweets encouraging the introduction of other tacos at the Bishop Arts District barbecue joint and the tinkering of the pitmasters and co-owners Jeff and Jill Bergus and Tim McLaughlin. The breakfast taco I was praying for and teased with the day before—one with Kreuz sausage—didn’t make it onto the menu that day. (“One day. We want to do it right, though.” Jeff Bergus teased again!) What did make it to the tables was an excellent example of the greatest thing to come out of Texas. Continue reading

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Filed under breakfast tacos, Oak Cliff

Tin Star Taco Taxi

I never liked Tin Star Taco Bar. From the get-go, the concept seemed like an M Crowd restaurant’s annoying, “pat-on-the-head” clever stepbrother. Besides, at this point, the chain’s signature noisome cheeseburger taco is hackneyed. Mark Brezinski, owner of Velvet Taco, had a hand in Tin Star, and now his unfortunately named Henderson Avenue gringo taco house offers a cheeseburger taco. It’s terrible. Continue reading

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Filed under food truck

Tepa Mar y Tierra

When my family and I began to look for a place to set down roots in Dallas, Oak Cliff was a no-brainer. We had lived in Northeast Dallas for a year and a half, and it was a step down from our digs in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, where we had all the familiarities of our Puerto Rican and Mexican heritages. A house in Oak Cliff would be a move in the right direction for us. It has been.

We have a 1920 craftsman bungalow that’s large enough for our small family, with a backyard for our dog and a pecan tree for our son to fall out of. The homestead is even on a fantastic, tight-knit block, with an outrageously kind Welcome Wagon. It’s so freaking bourgie, it’s sickening. I love it. Continue reading

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Filed under Oak Cliff

La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria

We had come this way before but at the time—approximately one year ago—the wife and I had decided La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria wasn’t right. The boy was with us and we were unsure of his ability to tolerate the bear-huggingheat and the dearth of seating in the Bachman Lake-area tortilla factory.

Without D, we were free to enjoy the stuff that tacos are made of and recommended by Scott of DallasFood.org. However, we didn’t merely enjoy, we loved the guisados (stews), La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria’s specialty. They are redolent, substantial preparations best paired with a freshly made tortilla, one that can push back against the mighty guisado. And that’s what done at La Nueva. From the counter can be seen the large kitchen, tremendous pots bubbling away, vessels from which come edible sunrises.  Continue reading

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Filed under Bachman Lake, Northwest Highway

Taco Republic to Hit the Road

During a family lunch at Richardson’s newest specialty taquería, Taco Republic (full disclosure: I did not receive any food gratis), I had the opportunity to speak with owner Ron Guest. While we chatted about the business and the grub, Guest announced that he and his partners are planning a food truck. Specifically, the Taco Republic mobile operation will hit the road after the bricks-and-mortar concern breaks even but well before the restaurant’s first anniversary.

As for the meal, I fulfilled the promise I made in my initial review, and enjoyed it. The Game Day buffalo chicken taco (not pictured) wasn’t buried under a briar patch of mediocre ingredients. Instead, chunks of chicken tossed in a tangy sauce peeked from beneath shaved celery and carrots. Mixed with the chicken was a sensible amount of blue cheese crema that wasn’t a runny cascade of putridity.  Continue reading

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Filed under food truck, Richardson