This week has seen the piling on of brisket taco love. And rightly so. Before all that hoopla, however, I ambled into Lockhart Smokehouse early last Saturday morning, tired from a move that took my family across the Trinity River to Oak Cliff, ready for grub. Specifically, brisket breakfast tacos, from pitmaster Will Fleischman, whose Monday brisket tacos I reviewed here.
Announced a day before the Mardi Gras weekend celebrations, the breakfast tacos were as much a product of my incessant fiddlingwith Lockhart leftovers and the posting of the resultant photos, my tweets encouraging the introduction of other tacos at the Bishop Arts District barbecue joint and the tinkering of the pitmasters and co-owners Jeff and Jill Bergus and Tim McLaughlin. The breakfast taco I was praying for and teased with the day before—one with Kreuz sausage—didn’t make it onto the menu that day. (“One day. We want to do it right, though.” Jeff Bergus teased again!) What did make it to the tables was an excellent example of the greatest thing to come out of Texas.
With buttery flour tortillas sourced from down the road at Dallas Tortilla & Tamale Factory—and just enough chew—brisket with a smoky base was nestled against springy eggs, trucked in from Grandview, as well as medium sharp cheddar tying the preparation together, I was again reminded of Fleischman’s talent. I gobbled up a pair soaked in housemade salsa roja an amalgamation of the traditional salsa components, but smoked—naturally—and with a touch of vinegar for balance.
I took my leave of the restaurant for a taste of Dos Paisanos’ Salvadoran-Mexican food truck on their maiden voyage and returned to Lockhart upon realizing I had left my fountain cola at the restaurant’s bar. It had been tossed by the time I bellied up, but I ordered another, watching as the Dash for the Beads participants and their supporters tossed back hurricanes and buckets of beer. By the time I glanced back to the front door, where the tacos had sat in a steam table, the little treasures had been removed—ostensibly happily devoured.
So, I sat at the bar, wondering what other taco will the staff of Lockhart offer next.
400 W. Davis St.