Category Archives: One Shot

One Shot: Knife Modern Steak

Head's up. It's taco time.

Head’s up. It’s taco time.

“One Shot” is an occasional series reviewing non-taquerías’ tacos.

The last time I saw my maternal grandfather, a hulk of a man, I was 5 years old. He had walked through the house carrying a lechon—a spit-roasted whole pork—across his shoulders into the backyard and on to the table where the rest of the food for the family feast was arrayed. He gently set down the pig in the center of the table while I stood at the end barely tall enough to look over the top. And in what seemed a continuous motion from the crispy brown animal to his placing his leathered hands under my arms, lifting me onto the table and sitting me crossed-legged face-to-face with our meal. No sooner had he said, “You’re first, Joseito,” than I had clasped the face of the pig behind the cheeks and yanked the whole thing off. In one piece. It was glorious. I gnawed on the ears and tried to pull the snout, a few singed bristles sprouting from it off the rest of the rough, salty skin. The cloudy white pad of fat on the backside of the face brushed my lips and chin. I loved that day.

When dinner plans were recently thrown for a loop and a friend mentioned the crispy pig’s head at John Tesar’s Knife steakhouse, I relived that day in an instant and said, “Yes.” Continue reading

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Filed under Dallas, One Shot, Reviews, Texas

One Shot: PhD — Pour House Dallas

“One Shot” is an occasional series reviewing non-taquerías’ tacos.

Did you hear the one about the sports bar that opened without a liquor license? If you’re into the Dallas bar and restaurant scene, you probably have. When PhD — Pour House Dallas, the local outpost of 17-year-old Pour House in Fort Worth, welcomed its first customers, the watering hole had a BYOB policy, although it did serve food.

I visited PhD last week on the day it was finally permitted to serve booze for a pint of Peticolas and a plate of fish tacos, the establishment’s best-selling menu item.

The beer was amazing. The tacos were messy. Continue reading

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Filed under Dallas, Oak Cliff, One Shot, Reviews

One Shot: Lockhart Smokehouse’s Pork Cheek Taco

“One Shot” is a new, occasional series reviewing non-taquerías’ tacos.

The unpredictability of fire and the variables of environment require a pitmaster to be equal parts mad scientist and wide-eyed child with a natural, boundless sense of wonder. Talent helps, too.

Lockhart Smokehouse Pitmaster Will Fleischman is certainly talented. If you’ve had his brisket, you know that. If you read this blog regularly, you know that. But have you tried his remarkable smoked salsa roja? When he pours apple cider (not vinegar) into the mixture, the result is a triple whammy of sweet, tart and smoky that can improve practically anything. Continue reading

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Filed under Bishop Arts District, Oak Cliff, One Shot