Author Archives: Taco Trail Jose

I spend a lot of time among chipped Formica, cracked tile and sticky counters. And do so happily. The joy I find in tacos is the sense of amazement 1977 audiences experienced when the star destroyer filled the screen in the opening scene of Star Wars. There are a lot of woahs, holy cows and what the hells. Whether my time at a taqueria is positive or punishing, though, I always learn something.

During a recent outing to Maple Avenue, I stepped into El Rey Del Grill, a restaurant reeking of cumin and floor cleaner, serving tacos not much more palatable than the mop used to with said floor cleaner.

With only four options on the menu, which included quesadillas, burritos and a carne asada platter, I had my work cut out for me. Continue reading →

On our first date, my wife lured me back to her Brooklyn apartment under false pretenses. She said watching Secretary, a movie I’d never heard of, would be the perfect ending to a night of rollerskating and pinball. We’ve been together since. I hope the same goes for Café Maya Mexican Kitchen & Cantina, especially for the Oak Cliff restaurant’s punchy cochnita taco.

First featured by Teresa Gubbins on Pegasus News and recommended to me by Steve Cruz of Might Fine Arts Gallery, Café Maya sits in the former Ojeda’s space and is owned by Sergio Pinto, the grandson of the original Ojeda’s founders. In its dining room, replete with dark wood, black-and-white photographs and folk art—think Calaveras, jaguars, a map of Yucatan—is served a mix of traditional, old-country Mexican fare, Tex-Mex and playful hybrids. Cobb Maya salad, anyone? But I was there for the tacos.

Barely had I slid into my banquette, when I was asked if I liked spicy foods. My affirmative answer excited the waitress who soon brought me a bowl of a fierce habanero salsa, described by Pinto as perfect for the trio I ordered. Continue reading →