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A Preview of the Rock and Roll Tacos/La Grange Menu

When I’m passionate something—um, like tacos—I go all in. In the realm of tacos, I’m passionate about Rock and Roll Tacos, the Dallas So-Cal-style taco truck that rolled out in December 2011.

Quickly, Rock and Roll and its owner James Quiñonez were everywhere, organizing food truck events, forming a loose confederation of like-minded mobile food vendors, partnered with Dos Equis for the 2012 Feast of the Brave semi-exotic taco promotion and now, as I’ve been detailing, is taking over LaGrange’s kitchen and opening a full-servicerestaurant.

The ambitious and indefatigable James and Mary Ann Quiñonez —with six kids, they need to be—aren’t content to replicate their truck’s menu in a brick-and-mortar setting. No, they’re going all out with a food program and a design scheme. Continue reading

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Café Maya Mexican Kitchen & Cantina

On our first date, my wife lured me back to her Brooklyn apartment under false pretenses. She said watching Secretary, a movie I’d never heard of, would be the perfect ending to a night of rollerskating and pinball. We’ve been together since. I hope the same goes for Café Maya Mexican Kitchen & Cantina, especially for the Oak Cliff restaurant’s punchy cochnita taco.

First featured by Teresa Gubbins on Pegasus News and recommended to me by Steve Cruz of Might Fine Arts Gallery, Café Maya sits in the former Ojeda’s space and is owned by Sergio Pinto, the grandson of the original Ojeda’s founders. In its dining room, replete with dark wood, black-and-white photographs and folk art—think Calaveras, jaguars, a map of Yucatan—is served a mix of traditional, old-country Mexican fare, Tex-Mex and playful hybrids. Cobb Maya salad, anyone? But I was there for the tacos.

Barely had I slid into my banquette, when I was asked if I liked spicy foods. My affirmative answer excited the waitress who soon brought me a bowl of a fierce habanero salsa, described by Pinto as perfect for the trio I ordered. Continue reading

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Go on the Lamb at Birrieria Aguiñaga

There are taquerías I pass again and again, always thinking, “I gotta check out that place.” Name, address (if I can see it from the passenger seat of my wife’s car) and cross street are quickly jotted down in my pocket notepad.

 

Life takes over at that point—and POOF. I don’t make good on my statement. Continue reading

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Go on the Lamb at Birrieria Aguiñaga

There are taquerías I pass again and again, always thinking, “I gotta check out that place.” Name, address (if I can see it from the passenger seat of my wife’s car) and cross street are quickly jotted down in my pocket notepad.
Life takes over at that point—and POOF. I don’t make good on my statement.
Wednesday last, I had the opportunity finally visit one of those “one day” joints, Birrieria Aguiñaga, a set-back restaurant on a cracked parking lot flanked by decrepit (abandoned?) businesses, on a taco-loving stretch of Northwest Highway. 
To the left of the main entrance a window counter sits below an enchanting sign “Ricos Tacos $1.00.” A modest dining room awaits those who venture inside. At the tables, workers, small families and the curious suck down Mexican Cokes and maws stuffed with tacos.
Chief among the tacos is the birria, the restaurant’s specialty (birrieria refers to an establishment serving birria, a meat stew originating from the Mexican state of Jalisco). In the case of Aguiñaga, the protein of choice is lamb.
And it did flabbergasting acrobatics, springing from cheek to cheek. It was smooth with hints of sweetness imparted by the malleable corn tortillas. The stew’s liquid was restrained by the tortillas and the rapidity with which I enjoyed the taco.
Next, I munched on a lengua taco, chopped not cubed. It had a similar consistency without the grin-inducing kinetic talents of the birria
The carnitas, not a DFW strong suit, teetered on the edge of dry with a pleasant crunch and the buoyant moistness of minced tomatoes.
However, the tinga (this one of chicken) saw the dehydrated cliff and went for it with the gusto a college freshman has for cheap beer and whiskey.
With only one disappointment, Birrieria Aguiñaga deserves further patronage. My appetite ponders the elements of the pastor and fajita tacos washed down with an agua fresca.
If Aguiñaga was so good, what does the rest of the Northwest Highway have in store for me? Most of the taquerías on the aforementioned list are located there.

Now, go read the review of Birrieria Aguiñaga by my friends at Taco Sense.

Birrieria Aguiñaga
2829 W Northwest Hwy., Ste. 325
214-353-2773

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Tacos For Shannon Stone: A Fundraiser

August 14 is going to be a big day. That’s when Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse will co-host the Shannon Stone Memorial Fundraiser. The event is another local effort to help the family of the firefighter Shannon Stone who fell over a railing at Rangers Ballpark while attempting to catch a ball for his six-year-old son.
As a father myself, I was doubly heartbroken for the Stone family but delighted to see the close-knit Dallas restaurant scene come together for a great cause. As such, I have donated a $30 gift card to the northern Mexico-style restaurant Taco Ocho in Richardson to the Shannon Stone Benefit. It’s the least I could do. 
Other food bloggers and writers have contributed more than I. Alice Laussade, Dallas Observer‘s James Beard-nominated Cheap Bastard, is offering the opportunity to lunch with her. Daniel Vaughn, BBQ connoisseur is also offering a meal with himself, plus four others.
The dinner will be held at the Dallas Farmers Market Saturday, August 14 between 6:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Sponsors include Dallas Farmers Market, Texas BBQ Posse, Il Cane Rosso, Edible DFW, CraveDFW, Deep Eddy Vodka, Lone Star Beer, Dirt, and US Foods. 

If you have the time and money, please consider attending (tickets are a scant $30 and include a BBQ dinner). 
Complete details can be found here.

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Ssahm BBQ is Near Perfect

Since the Korean taco craze came to Dallas with Kor BQ, diners’ choices have been expanding. Goghee to Go opened in earlier this year in the former Burguesa Burger space. The latest, Ssahm BBQ, gives the style, a locally new spin—that of the truck. And you have probably gone nuts for it. While I’ll walk a mile in 100-degree heat for their tacos—and I have—the tortillas leave me wanting.

My first experience with Ssahm’s fare was at the Arts District Summer Block. The fillings, like the earthy knots of kalbi beef, were a delightful chemistry of spicy, creamy and toothsome. The tortillas were bewildering.
With fusion tacos, the wrapper takes a supporting role to the creativity within. Unfortunately, the owners and cooks of Ssahm managed to produce schizophrenic tortillas on my initial visit. Each of the six tacos my party ordered suffered the same fate. They were warped, crunchy at the sides and near translucent at the center/bottom. Successive, overall happy visits, have earned me wavy, confusing tortillas, intermittently moist and dehydrated. The proteins, however, and the accompanying garnishes, were glorious. Crunchy here. Kicking there. Marvelous between the sheets.
The kalbi holds up against the sweet sesame soy vinaigrette salad its cohort, caramelized kimchee. The cilantro and onion were restrained but their presence was apparent periodically, furthering the delight.
The pork (daeji) was sweet with hints of orange that aided in its concealment among the equally sweet salad. Still, once the heat from the salsa comes from behind, ricocheting across the tongue and the sides of the mouth, the pork proves it the equal of the kalbi.
Also on Ssahm BBQ’s taco menu are spicy chicken (ddak) and tofu (dubu), neither of which I have had the pleasure of sampling. Stepping away from the tacos and entering a realm of the unexpected is the quesadilla, made with a flour tortilla.
Spot on, its slight snap at the edges gave way to a softening shell that in the center that was hot, tender and when chomped into pulled away in threads of cheese hugging beef.

If Ssahm had a tortilla maker on staff, I’d walk further than I’ve had to for their food and pay double the three-dollar price tag for the tacos. It is all that is lacking from an otherwise superb culinary offering in Dallas. If you need to walk for tacos, Ssahm is the way to go

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Taco Trail Has Gone Indie

Hello, all, and welcome to the new online home of Taco Trail, formerly of the Dallas Observer‘s food blog, City of Ate. On this blog, I will catalog my journey through the taco landscape in Texas and beyond.

A look back at previous installments of Taco Trail can be found here.

Thanks for reading. Adelante!

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More at City of Ate, Dallas Observer’s Food Blog

I haven’t been posting here because I’ve been focusing on my thrice-weekly contributions to City of Ate, Dallas Observer‘s food blog. If you would like to read samples of my work, please click on the links below or go to City of Ate’s main page. My online portfolio can be found at Mediabistro. Take a gander at all of it, especially if you’re considering hiring me for freelance or full-time employment. That would rock.

100 Favorite Dishes: Coconut Soup at Mi Tierra

Food the FDA Should Recall

Los Altos de Jalisco No. 2: I Got My Goat

Goya Foods Recalls Frozen Mamey Packages Linked to Salmonella Typhi

Attack of The Killer Tacos or Urban Taco Expands

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