Fort Worth has a wealth of loncheras. They’re stationed at the far end of grocery store parking lots, they’re parked alongside convenience stores—wherever they call roll up and set a table with a few chairs. That’s where I found Taqueria Eva’s, a taco truck on the city’s Northside.
An older gentleman sat reading a newspaper in the truck’s cab as a friend and I walked up to the lonchera. As we stepped up to the ordering window, a boy young enough to be the man’s son it open, took our order and immediately set to making our tacos, working the flattop and heating the tortillas like he—a kid—was a seasoned taquero.
Nothing the boy made for us was worth bemoaning or getting upset over. Taqueria Eva’s’ tacos were perfectly acceptable noshes. Still, the barbacoa, shredded and a pale, sandy color, was a tad dry. The lengua was fine with easy grassy notes. My favorite, though, was the carne asada, a no-fuss serving of grilled beef that hit the spot but did not wow.
Our time at Taqueria Eva’s was by no means a waste. Unlike local mobile gourmet options such as Holy Frijole and Chile Pepper Grill, Taqueria Eva’s and many of Cowtown’s taco trucks are unassuming rigs. So, if you’re not looking for them, you’ll likely not notice them. In Taqueria Eva’s’ case, the only distinguishing feature is the multicolored word TACO framed in lights. It’s not much. But it’s enough, and if you’re on the Northside, you could do much worse.Taqueria Eva’s New K & T Quickstop parking lot 2500 NE 28th Street Fort Worth, TX