So-Cal Tacos

Operating out of Tarrant County, Scott Wooley’s So-Cal Tacos is a red rig affixed with a surfboard. Like its Dallas counterpart, Rock and Roll Tacos, it’s hard to miss. So-Cal Tacos is also the truck that initiated my quest for primo fish tacos, leading to notable selections across Dallas-Fort Worth and San Diego (more on that in the future).

The San Diego Classic, the signature dish, resembles a Gorton’s fish fillet of childhood but offers bright, acidic licks and a pleasant crunch imparted by panko breading and zippy garnishes of slaw and aioli. The breading is a departure from the standard fish taco enclosed in beer-batter. However, it works. And in three words: I dig it.

The pastor, oven-roasted then finished on the flattop griddle, has a moist center encased in a crackling shell. It’s another hit.

Meanwhile, the chicken (Delmar) leaned toward the dry side of the border on my first visit. A follow-up showed improvement. Once past the lettuce, the Game Changer offers a sticky sweetness with a kick in the honey-chipotle grilled salmon.

The shrimp (Laguna), is unusual. No cheating on serving size, here, just sweet, pink curls of choice shellfish.

Even though when I think of Wooley’s mobile enterprise, I recall the straight-up fish taco, the Classic isn’t the sole reason to line up for a salutary high five from Wooley before placing an order. Black bean and steak tacos are listed, as are burritos—go Left Coast traditional with the mammoth California—and a children’s menu, something rare for a food truck. Those hungry for a messy dish can stick their fingers into the Gnarly Nachos. The adventurous can go for the ghost chilies.

And dessert.

There are occasions when eating dessert first is the right thing to do. In the case of So-Cal’s sopapilla fries, this is the recommended course. Otherwise, the fried strips of dough bound by drizzled honey and dusted with confectioners sugar become cold. Eat them warm and smile. You won’t be disappointed.

The same goes for So-Cal. The only disappointment is that the truck doesn’t spend more time in Dallas.

Follow So-Cal Tacos on Facebook and Twitter, or visit them tomorrow 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m., at Thanksgiving Square in Downtown Dallas, 1627 Pacific Ave.