I’ve eaten tacos made in a laundromat, tacos on the property of an automechanic’s garage and now I’ve eaten tacos from Zombie’s Food Truck, a Fort Worth-based mobile kitchen specializing in vegan foods. At the invitation of Dallas Vegan’s Jamey Scott, I hopped on the bus for a Dallas Vegan Drinks meetup during a Deep Ellum Brewing Company Thursday night tour, with food from the aforementioned operation.
Named after Texas Rangers starting pitcher (and native Dominican) Neftali Feliz—currently on the disabled list—Zombie’s Neftacos Feliz are small corn tortillas filled with partially shredded meat substitute seitan (wheat gluten) and topped with stringy onion, chopped avocados then given a sprinkle of cilantro. The pair are a solid meal with a few disappointments.
First of all, the garnishing cilantro was lost in other flavors as dominant as the state fair’s fried-foods are over every gut. The seitan, packed tightly into a muddy brown mass, was acidic and sweet with no trace of the spicy alleged in the menu description. No fire was offered by the pepper-pineapple ranch dressing. Moreover, each bite of the Neftacos was a fiber-optic cable’s width from a sugary nuclear winter. That they didn’t take the cloying plunge gave me hope.
My second experience with the Neftaco Feliz was an improved one. There was a spark across my tongue, a smile on my face, a promise fulfilled—even if the cilantro was again masked—and a welcome change to my porcine and bovine-predominant eating habits.
My taste buds weren’t brought back from the dead, but Zombie’s tacos are curious enough to recommend to diners and food-truck enthusiasts hankering for something a little different.
Follow Zombie’s Food Truck online at www.eatatzombies.com.