Taquería Mezquite

When I’ve eaten at Ojeda’s, I’ve not noticed Taquería Mezquite, a small restaurant across from the Tex-Mex citadel on Maple Avenue. When I’ve lunched at Maple & Motor or at any of the other surrounding establishments. However, I did notice the small restaurant while wasting time along Maple before an unfortunate meal at El Rey del Grill. With advertisements utilizing rough representations of a ram on the fascade and on the side of the pastel-green building housing it, the eatery should have never been missed by anyone, especially not by my lunch companions and I. We were about to rectify the oversight, ready for Taquería Mezquite’s goods.

And the one-room joint, humorously identified as a sports bar above the entrance, certainly was good.

None of the dollar tacos disappointed, not even Mezquite’s chicharrón, one of the few palatable examples of the style—fried pork skin reconstituted in safety orange-colored salsa—I’ve consumed in Dallas.

The carnitas was a network of crackly bits and ribbons of fat, a selection that improved with each bite and a helping of the habanero relish brought to our table.

The granular chorizo was a mouth-puckering delight, far from the cat-litter consistency characteristic of chorizo served by some of Dallas’ beloved taco peddlers.

Lovely and glistening, the barbacoa was a joy to eat in the house-made (not from nixtamal) tortillas.

A pile of fresh tortillas came with the day’s special, albondigas (meatballs). When I had ordered the dish, I assumed the meatballs would be served as a taco, not as a platter with rice and refried beans, because I had just told the waitress I wanted tacos. Miscommunication, be damned. The twin beef globes were a tasty surprise, concealing one hard-boiled egg each.

Indeed, Taquería Mezquite as a whole was a tasty surprise. I should’ve gone there instead of El Rey Del Grill when I had the opportunity.