Tag Archives: suburbs

Taqueria La Candelaria


On two consecutive days I found myself in Richardson. And two consecutive days, I left two taquerias with a skip in my step and a smile on my face. The second, La Candelaria—named after the religious holiday marking the end of the Christmas season in Mexico and commemorating the presentation of the infant Jesus at the temple—is tucked into a corner of a shopping center anchored by a large supermarket. But I only noticed that on the way out. So fixed I was on getting my mitts around the restaurant’s handmade tortillas on the independent recommendation of two friends.

The L-shaped taqueria was dark, even in the middle of the day, when I walked up to the counter and ordered one of almost everything (they were out of pancita [stomach, guts]).

There was only awful taco that day at La Candelaria—the hongos. The rubbery collection of sliced mushrooms was fresh from an aluminum culinary coffin. I caught the owner clearing tables and asked about the cabeza.  The cachete, or cheek, was a tad too fatty for his tastes, but that he liked it all the same. (Of course he did.) If it needed less fat—which it didn’t; the cabeza was the leanest I’ve had in Dallas-Fort Worth—the cheek meat needed more seasoning. A net of iridescent fat would’ve provided. Continue reading

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Filed under DFW, North Texas, Reviews, Richardson, Texas

Is Cowboy Chow’s Transformation Into a Taco Concept Too Late?

Photo: Tacos & Avocados/Facebook

By now you’ve probably read that Jason Boso of Twisted Root fame is closing the last of his Cowboy Chow restaurants. Whereas the Dallas location closed in May 2011 and was replaced by Buzzbrews, the second Cowboy Chow, this one in Roanoke, will become Tacos & Avocados, Bosso’s new fast-casual specialty taquería concept.

Menu selections listed in the press release, including a rib-eye steak taco with bacon-onion marmalade, blue cheese crumbles and potato straws as well as a mango-chile pepper paleta and daily fish taco specials, seem appetizing enough, but what separates Boso’s steak taco from any other gussied-up beef option? Continue reading

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