Trompo Loco Highland Mart

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It all started with a photo message from Brandon Castillo. My friend, the executive director of the Deep Ellum Outdoor Market and co-producer of the North Texas Taco Festival, had sent me an image of a flyer with a trompo, the logo of the Saltillo, Mexico, soccer club, a map and words: Trompo Loco Highland Mart.

Our first attempt at eating at Trompo Loco was for naught. I arrived ahead of Brandon and found the blue corner building, a former bodega, closed with no sign of a lunch opening. We defaulted to Tacos La Banqueta, a short walk away. It wasn’t a bad move.

On recent weekend morning, I get another photo from Brandon, this one of a lone taco de trompo on blue-and-white checker paper. It was followed by a picture of a trompo, carmine-colored spinning top-shape hunk pork capped with the top half of a pineapple at the corner of Worth Street & North Carroll Avenue.

It wasn’t until yesterday that I finally had the opportunity to try the tacos at Trompo Loco Highland Mart. They incredible.

The two tacos de trompo I order had mild acidity but barely any kick. The pork had spots of char inside yellow corn tortillas crisped at the edges and bore a sheen from a quick rest in spot of oil and contact with the heat of the griddle. Nothing was tough. Nothing was overly greasy. Just incredible.

I could’ve gone with  a mixta or a gringa, a chicken taco or a hamburguesa—the tortas come highly recommended, too—but once I saw piratas were an option, my decision had been made.

Warm and substantial the flour tortilla held knots of bistec in a blanket of white cheese, creating a pirata, a taco style common in Northern Mexico, that was a salty, chewy treat.

I considered ordering more but decided to return on a Wednesday, when the shop offers a special of 20 tacos for $20. Twenty tacos de trompo of the caliber at Trompo Loco Highland Mart between a few friends is an excellent way to spend a hour in the middle of the week.